African American Men Hairstyles - Why is the U.S. Army Biased Against African-American Women's ... - Blog Black Hair Styles

Why is the U.S. Army Biased Against African-American Women's ...
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Absurd Army Rule on African American HAIR | The Moderate Voice
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Why is the U.S. Army Biased Against African-American Women's ...

Posted: 11 Apr 2014 02:30 PM PDT

In the early 1970s, the women's liberation movement was in full swing. Activists focused on giving women freedom to choose their own paths and have equal access to opportunities traditionally reserved for men. One of the major battlegrounds was corporate America where women fought to go past the reception desk and into the corner office. As the corporate culture changed, so did the idea of what was considered professional behavior. Men still dominated the board room and, ultimately, the employee manual.

When it came to what to wear, women were forced to emulate the male style, but still dress as men felt women should. Suits were generally of the typical gray, black, or blue colors. Women would be required to wear skirts – below the knee – and shoes that were appropriate in heel height. Makeup had to be "natural" and hair had to be done in a conservative manner, which generally meant pulled into a bun or otherwise not worn below the shoulders.

In the decades since, more women are in the boardroom and corporate culture has adjusted accordingly. Women wear suits, dresses and pants with vivid colors. They are tailored to fit their body and the shoes are fabulous. However, as the workplace has become more diverse, conservative work environments have still been slow to adjust to the needs of many women – especially women of color.

Last month, the U.S. Army released its latest appearance guidelines. Like all organizations, the military has rules as to grooming and uniform. Soldiers must always maintain a professional appearance while on duty. Guidelines cover everything from uniform to jewelry – including piercings, tattoos, and hairstyles. The new guidelines on hairstyles have created an uproar that has been heard all the way to the halls of Congress.

The updated regulations have specified which hairstyles, for women and men, are authorized. The banned styles are predominately worn by African-American women, especially those that do not choose to chemically alter their natural hair. Furthermore, the accepted styles would be difficult for black women with natural hair to maintain, especially when deployed in areas that lack the modern conveniences, and time, needed to be considered regulation.

Black hair is naturally curly and the texture varies. Generally, however, the hair grows up and out, not down as straight hair does. For hair that has a courser texture and a tighter curl, sometimes referred to "kinky," it requires a great deal of effort and varied techniques to maintain when not altered chemically or thermally. As a result, many black women choose hairstyles that can be worn for longer periods of time, such as twists, braids or cornrows. These are especially useful for black female soldiers that are deployed in war zones or in the field for extended periods of times.

These are also the styles that have been modified or banned by the Army.

While the updated regulations apply to all women, many seem to ignore the unique challenges for black hair. Female soldiers cannot wear hairstyles that are longer than the bottom edge of the collar than their uniform and it must be of a uniform length. Essentially, women with long hair will need to pull their hair into a bun, which must be secured, not extend further than three inches from the scalp, and not lopsided. It also has to be secured with an authorized accessory, which means that huge hairclips are not allowed and scrunchies must match the soldier's hair color.

While all of this seems reasonable, considering the needs of the required headgear, a lot of this is not easy to comply with for black women. Curls that are thick and tight do not pull easily into a bun or stay in place without altering the natural state of the hair. The new regulation requiring only two braids and that they lay flat would be impossible for anyone with thick hair, especially if it doesn't naturally lay flat. While cornrows are still allowed, they must be small and start from the front of the scalp, a style that isn't easy to achieve without the help of someone else.

Black female soldiers are speaking out against the regulations, claiming that the standards are racially biased and ignore the complexities of black hair. While they agree that soldiers need to maintain a professional appearance, the new regulations are forcing a definition of professionalism that excludes black women. As one soldier noted on the Facebook page of the Sgt. Major of the Army, "As far as the twists, that really limits females with curly/kinky hair. I can't simply pull my hair back due to excessive knotting. I proudly wear twists in a professional manner every day and only took them down on the weekends. It makes it very difficult for ethnic females."

The issue is not unique to the Army. Studies have shown that black people who do not look a certain way are often ignored for promotions, if they are hired at all. While things like a blue mohawk (which is also banned by the Army, by the way) is generally considered unprofessional, the hairstyle is a choice and one that doesn't occur naturally. For black women that wear their hair in a natural state and appropriately groomed, it is still considered unprofessional. This creates an environment where talent is being ignored simply because of outdated standards of professionalism, which are based on the ideals of white men.

Black lawmakers in Congress have called on Defense Secretary Chuck Hagel to reconsider the guidelines. There is also a petition to the White House started by National Guard member Sgt. Jasmine Jacobs in hopes of having them address the issue. There is also a Care2 petition here. While they wait for the response, the Army has noted that they are providing some leeway with compliance. The regulation allows for a waiver program that grants exceptions on a case-by-case basis.

Of course, a woman could also decide to shave her head completely, but that is banned by the Army as well – but only for women.

Something About Curly Hairstyles for Black Men | Men's Hairstyles ...

Posted: 12 Apr 2014 06:00 PM PDT

Curly hairstyles for black men are really amazing. African American men have curly hair types, this depends on how you want to treat your hairstyle is. Treat on your curly hair will be a hairstyle that is interesting to you. Such as cornrows hair style, Afros, dreadlocks hairstyle, buzz cuts, Mohawk hairstyle, and other very suitable to be applied hairstyle for your day. But the short hairstyle is the kind of styles to you with curly hair. This is a trendy and attractive hairstyle.

Curly hairstyles for black men when styled right can look really hot and full of attitude. What you need is to show your curls some tender loving care and get a great hairstyle that brings out its strong appeal. Men have throughout history tried different ways of styling their curls. Some retro men's curly hairstyles involve a center parting with the curls styled short to make a frame for the face. What kind of hairstyle you choose for your locks depends on the kind of attitude you want to show. If you want curls that are easy to manage on an everyday basis with a bit of brushing, go for cropped style. Decide whether you want to get the back of your hair cropped, or let the hair naturally curl over your collar.

To get a rock star looks, keep your long curls flowing, and use a center parting to let the curls frame your face for a wild and edgy vibe. Afro curls would looks great when you get a short crop. Many Afro black curly hairstyles for men involve cropping the hair above the ears while piling on volume on the top of the head. Short layers are also a good way to style fine curly hairstyles for black men.

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Posted: 15 Apr 2014 05:52 AM PDT

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Absurd Army Rule on African American HAIR | The Moderate Voice

Posted: 18 Apr 2014 03:10 AM PDT

Posted By DR. CLARISSA PINKOLA ESTÉS, Managing Editor of TMV, and Columnist on Apr 18, 2014 |

I convinced her to go to the ER at our small town hospital, for her scalp was literally splitting apart and bleeding bright red, running down her brown temples and forehead and neck onto her lawn collared dress.

The people at the hospital ER [not black] were kindly and horrified. What happened to you?? they asked as they cleaned and patted and washed and placed strong ointment on the long open scars of her scalp. Mattie, called 'old Mattie" was 45 or thereabouts, but seemed 80 because of her careworn head skin with raised keloid scarring.

I was 18 years old, fresh out of beauty school in my small hometown. I'd gone to beauty school with many blacks and was known as a queen of fingerwaves, stand up pincurls, and using a curling iron without burning anyone. My private practice built up fast — with black women of all ages–

mainly because I carried around a treasured book I kept taking out and taking out of the library one town over… about Malvina Hoffman sculptures in the Chicago Natural History museum… called 'hall of man' with over 60 full sized sculptures from actual travels, of Africans and Middle Eastern tribal people across those continents. SO beautiful were their hairdos, keeping their hair in their NATURAL state, without chemicals… without straightening hot irons that burned the scalp so badly.

I became known for being able to sculpt hair 'natural' in the old tribal styles…some of which I wrapped like halos, others like slick back front, with giant puff of soft hair at the back, others with ribbons winding throughout in braids, and others, keeping those tiny waves like in beautiful sand underwater, rippled hair cut just sharp to fit the cap of the skull with my razor–

and others pulled into any manner of sculpture… that enhanced the face and shoulders and body… for black hair grows outward and upward, not downward like the hair of some of the other races. Black hair has a gift for fanning and flowing and 'standing out.'

Then came to me Old Mattie, and she would only go to the hospital if i went with her, which I gladly did. And she nearly died from the infections her scalp had gotten from someone using a hot iron on her hair since she was a child… burning her with the barrel iron tip, whilst trying to 'straighten it' … putting unspeakable chemicals on head in order to 'straighten hair' that came with the tiniest sine wave ironed right into it by Creator and parents. Trying to make beautiful soft and bounding hair into some straight, strange lank thing…

Bernie McGuirk and Don Imus and their nasty 'nappy headed ho's' repartee that took such delight in demeaning, dehumanizing black women basketball players whose hair did not 'look right' to them… were not at old Mattie's bedside in the hospital, while a sepsis spread through her body and she nearly lost her life… from trying so hard to be… what? Acceptable? To whom? The likes of?

Old Mattie survived, but with large places on her scalp where hair would not grow again, as hair does not normally thrive through dense scar tissue. Yet, countless more women [not only African Americans] still bought into the idea that what they were gifted with at birth was third rate, whether in size, shape, color, tint of skin, or hair.

And not for reasons of health, but for reasons of having ingested the inhumane poison of the overculture: that there is only one way for a woman to look that is acceptible, that is some one or two or ten or ten thousand's personal idea of what is beautiful– a uni-beauty against which all women are measured like livestock.

¡Ya basta!

But then came the late 60s and the 70s and encouragement to decide how each soul wished to be as THEY saw fit. Things changed for many African American women who said, I want my own form of beauty, without being forced to conform to a RACIAL type I am not and never will be. I take pride in being beautiful as I was born. And so African American hair –which is ALREADY GOOD hair, the best… was grown out and upward, as was its penchant and its gift.

Thought natural hair of African Americans might look wiry to some at first glance, that's a one inch shallow observation. To touch the natural hair of most African Americans is like touching cloud, like touching ebony feathers, like touching the softest brown wing of a dove, so soft it is, so so soft and cushioned. So beautiful.

Alrighty then, this week Defense Secretary Chuck Hagel dictated AR 670 US ARMY revised regs to say that black women must just, you know, do somethin' about that hair!

Viz: "black women may wear their hair au naturelle in twists or braids if they choose, but they must be narrow twists or braids — no more than a quarter-inch in diameter." {quarter inch, is maybe about pencil eraser diameter]

NPR reports "(The Army has forbidden twists and dreadlocks since 2005, but wasn't specific about size. And while thin twists are still allowed, dreadlocks remain prohibited.)"

So… African American women are singled out to be forced to meet norms not easily associated with the pride and heritage of their race… and specifically their hair which for many, does not 'twist' easily without loose ends springing free– as is meant for that kind of hair… it is living hair, often with a mind of its own, not just dead protein laying there.

How to 'make that unruly hair behave' seems the underlying trope in Hagel's regs. Why sure, to conform, just chemicalize it, hot comb or hot straighten those renegade hairs. DONT think about neat and tidy while taking racial attributes into account. Just do as I say, for the 200th year in a row. {Ironically the US ARMY corp was first to integrate races in 1948. But, now this. }

I've heard all the arguments for uniformity [reminds me so of Catholic school too], and sure, I'm a 21 years USAF wife, and knew the drills so well I could have marched them myself. But/and, there have been forever in all parts of the world, the tribal and ethnic groups who have served proudly, Zoaves, Hussars, Foreign Legion, Rajastanis, and so many more… and they were not barred by skin, or hairstyle, or turban or [for men] mustache, or horse, nor lack of one.

[Hegel's office is said to have made some noise about helmets not fitting right certain hairdos. Please. Make the helmets fit the head, not the other way around. BALD men also pose helmet drift and slide. Ought they wear wigs? Good idea. Great to insure 'proper fit of helmet.'] According to a US Army PowerPoint presentation, none of the three hairstyles [above] would be acceptable under the new regulations. Three beautiful hairstyles worthy of artful prize. ]

My point being this: if in dire straights or in combat, I am never going to ask a soldier why they are wearing dreads. Or why they dare to be bald. Or why they are french braiding their dreads into breadloaf size tail down their backs. All I want to know, is are they brave, are they strong, can they freakin shoot straight, can they run fast, can they dead-man-carry me if need be. I really dont give a hoot nor a holler about their 'hair style.'

Yet, the issue really isnt 'hair style,' nor helmets. It's a ignorance about the natural state of people other than oneself. We can never ever go back to the days where women felt they 'had to' straighten their hair with destructive to lungs and body and scalp chemicals, or fire hot irons– in order to keep someone who is not them and not like them, from looking askance and blurting, 'Whoa, what's going on with your hair! It's like… wow, weird hair.'

It isnt weird hair. It's beautiful black hair. And women like old Mattie almost died because others tried to pressure them into trying to look like their hair grew straight and down, instead of out and up like raven wings.

I say, let the ravens and the redwinged blackbirds fly free. Dignity is the heart of each day, for even the Holy Words, tell us a woman's long hair is her crowning glory. Corinthians didnt say, act like you can easily conform to standards that come so easily– to another race other than your own. Corinthians praises that a woman has full hair. Praises her beauty of her tribal group. As was true then. As ought be now.

CODA
According to a US Army, none of the three hairstyles in the photo would be acceptable under the new regulations. So much for tidy and neat and… beautiful… which are NOT opposites. They are, in black hair, as in all kinds of hair belonging to all different kinds of people… to each her own, to each his own… a perfect marriage.

US Army

Author: DR. CLARISSA PINKOLA ESTÉS, Managing Editor of TMV, and Columnist

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Posted: 10 Mar 2014 06:51 AM PDT

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